Everything You Need To Know About the UK Textile Sector

Even though Italy remains the leader in the European apparel industry, the UK's textile and garment production is still among the most successful in the continent. According to a report published by the UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT) in collaboration with Oxford Economics, this sector contributes £62 billion to the UK economy (UKFT, 2023). On top of this, the report highlighted how this industry alone is responsible for one in every 25 jobs in the country, giving employment to over 197,000 people under 25 years of age, 52,000 aged 65 and older, and 540,000 women. 

In light of these data, it is evident how the apparel industry remains a fundamental sector for the UK's economic growth. In this regard, the CEO of UKFT, Adam Mansell, said: "This report highlights for the first time the vital contribution that the fashion and textile industry makes to the UK economy and society as a whole, and its potential for future growth and positive impact. With the right support, the industry stands poised to lead the way for post-covid recovery, emphasising its resilience and adaptability." 

But what types of textiles do the UK produce? As of 2020, the UK's textile sector has produced £5.8 billion in materials of all types, from luxurious cashmere to worsted wool, tweeds, and tartans, as well as a wide variety of technical textiles and performance fabrics used for specific industries, such as the medical, defence, and even aerospace sectors. The country is now home to over 4,200 businesses, and the number keeps increasing year by year by roughly 12%. According to data published by the UKFT, the UK exports  £3bn of textiles to almost every country in the world (UKFT, 2020). But is the UK's apparel sector sustainable?

Is The UK's Apparel Industry Sustainable? 

Regarding sustainability, the UK government is investing in practices that aim to limit this sector's waste and environmental impact. 

Circular Economy

In April 2024, the UKFT, together with Recomme and ACS, launched Repurpose, a processing and innovation hub promoting the circular economy. Talking about this project, Tom Grafton, the founder of Recomme, said: "By bringing together our expertise and resources, we are making circular infrastructure more accessible — both commercially and logistically, which we know is one of the key hurdles to many presently." But what will this project do in practice for UK's fashion brands?

Repurpose will ensure all unwanted and damaged clothes and fabrics will be sent to the right facilities to be properly recycled and reused. By establishing collaborations with wool and cashmere recycling facilities, people working on this initiative will help minimise waste throughout the country. On top of this, it will be able to recycle a wide variety of materials, including man-made cellulosic fibres, blended materials, and synthetic fabrics, which are often difficult to reuse. Andrew Rough, CEO of ACS, commented on the project by saying: "Through Repurpose, we aim to establish a seamless ecosystem where brands, retailers and innovators come together to accelerate to a truly circular economy" (Vogue, 2024).

Back to Baselines

Another interesting project recently embraced by the UKFT is the Back to Baseline initiative launched in collaboration with the Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour, the UK's Waste Resources and Action Programme (WRAP), and researchers from several universities nationwide. This project will identify and address the main challenges faced by the UK's fashion and textile industry, specifically regarding sustainable growth. The main aim of the Back to Baseline project will be to develop strategies to help this sector meet a NetZero target by supporting innovation while minimising environmental impact. 

The project already received £1.6 million in funding and is part of a £6 million wider project. In talking about this initiative, Adam Mansell said: "The UK fashion and textile industry urgently needs a clear picture of the sector and scientifically validated data to inform decision-making. Establishing baselines will allow the industry to measure and monitor progress for the future" (UKFT, 2023).

Sustainable Supply Chain Optimisation Project

Lastly, let's briefly mention the Sustainable Supply Chain Optimisation project (SSCO). Launched in 2021 by the UKFT in collaboration with IBM, Tech Data, and the Future Fashion Factory, this innovative platform brings more transparency to the UK's textile industry supply chain. 

To do so, the people working on this project started by focusing on cotton production, one of the main materials used by the UK's fashion industry. Several factors were investigated, including water certifications and forced labour within the international supply chain. With time, the project was also expanded to other materials, such as the UK's wool supply chain (EKFT, 2021). 

The History of the UK's Textile Industry

The UK's textile industry is incredibly ancient and can be traced back to the Middle Ages. However, like most European countries, it was only with the Industrial Revolution, between 1760 and 1840, that this sector expanded considerably. Before the revolution, clothes were produced by spinners and weavers working in their homes. It was common for families to divide the work. For instance, kids often washed and carded the wool, women spun the yarns, and men waved the clothes using hand-powered looms. 

One of the first machines that changed everything was the flying shuttle, which John Kay invented in 1733. This machine facilitated the waving of wider fabrics therefore creating broader textiles. It was the flying shuttle that paved the way for the introduction of automatic machines that revolutionised the UK's apparel industry, such as Edmund Cartwright's Power Loom, Samuel Crompton's Spinning Mule, and Elias Howe's Sewing Machine. 

Today, the UK's apparel sector remains one of the most successful in Europe. The UK textile innovation was ranked third in the world and first in Europe in terms of patent generation (UKFT, 2021). With over 4,800 students studying textile design, technology, and engineering, the country will likely remain a key player in the European textile industry (UKFT, 2020).